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Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 08:29 SGT
Posted By: Gilbert

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A York Day Out

8 June



A sound sleep in the four-poster bed later, I woke and had a mixed breakfast of four different types of cornflakes in the dining room at eight. Fueled for the brisk ten-minute walk to the old town centre, we re-encountered our daily dose of dry English humour en route:


An equal opportunity retailer (SPAR reference)


A few of you may be scratching your heads as to why we're in York instead of some more famous present day city like say, Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle or even Birmingham, but back in the days of yore before the football league began (yes, that long ago), York was a fairly significant town. Constantine the Great was proclaimed Roman Emperor here back in 306 (then Eboracum), their Duke lost the War of the Roses in 1487 and local bad boy Guy Fawkes almost blew up Parliament with lots of gunpowder in 1605. Terrorism is good business when it passes into the history books, though, and now the city isn't shy about riding on his name for the tourism dollar.

Arriving from Clifton Bootham road, we encountered the York Art Gallery, which would probably have been a bit of a letdown after the treasures of the Prado, no disrespect intended. Old William Ettyra [1], Royal Academician circa 1828, didn't quite mind - how could he when he has a bird on his head? The grounds of the Museum Gardens (we skipped the Museum itself) were sprinkled with Roman ruins [2], but the local wildlife was more eye-opening. A fat squirrel romped while a thin one posed for photos, and the birds actually sat down and did people-watching on the grass! I've never seen that before, but when the temperature is so comfortably cool, it's understandable.

Began the City Walls walk from the Multangular tower, and trudged along the stone defences that date from the 13th century, but first raised maybe a thousand years before that. The graves of plague victims and the heads of rebels once accompanied the walls [3], but now it's just a nice path for a breezy stroll round the old city. Any remaining ghosts need not be too discouraged, as I counted no less than four organized "ghost walk" operators, at which they can surely find suitable employment.


Note the date of proclamation


Gawked at the not-very-towering Clifford's Tower [4] (helped however by the round mound it sits on), where 150 poor Jews lost their lives in a fire after being shut up there by a mob. Chuckled at some Horrible Histories titles (especially The Barmy British Empire) at the York Castle Museum gift shop, then stopped for lunch at the Jade Garden Cantonese Restaurant in the area. One guesses that the owners may be Malaysian, as Terima Kasih can be found in the menu (along with Singapore Fried Rice).

Availed ourselves of the three-course special lunch menu for 5.95 Euros, and I had Chicken Noodle soup followed by Sweet & Sour Chicken with Egg Fried Rice [5], and finished with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. One may question our reliance on Chinese and fast food in England, but given the reputation of English cuisine, I feel that falling back on known qualities is not unwarranted.

Made our way to the heart of the old town, where the huge York Minster stands. Still slightly sick of cathedrals, we gave its insides a miss. The comparatively tiny St Michael le Belfrey church nestles awkwardly off the side, and it may seem redundant to have it right by a bloody big cathedral, until one realises that even before God, some - make that most - did not quite qualify for first-class service, so there you go. Fawkes was baptized there, by the way.

The Minster is also the seat of the Archbishop of York of the Church of England (also known as the Anglican Church), which more or less split off from Rome because King Henry the Eighth wanted a divorce back in 1534. Since the stuffy old Pope said no, Henry played hardball and declared himself God's Head Representative on Earth (valid in England only), and that was that. No significant plagues, lightning storms or showers of blood were observed, so we can only surmise that God didn't object, and good old Henry VIII wielded his newfound right to divorce with gusto, marrying six times and beheading two wives. Can't help but admire his style, if not his taste.

York isn't shy about honouring its sons (both famous and less so) and monarchs, and plaques commemorating their lives and deeds abound - such as the one to one John Goodricke, who got elected a fellow of the Royal Society aged 21 despite being deaf and dumb, but sadly died a year later. I'm still just happy to be able to understand the words, after my time in Spain. Visited the tearoom of the Treasurer's House where Goodricke did his observations, but was more taken by the front garden [7], which seemed perfect for a mini football pitch.

Having more or less exhausted the free attractions of York, we wandered the commercial areas, where sel found fit to buy a good pair of shorts for 12 pounds at bhs, and was flabbergasted when the cashier informed him that he could claim a free T-shirt for purchases over ten. I held out until the Publishers' Book Clearance outlet, where after a long, long look I selected What Are You Optimistic About, The Secret History of Assassination - Their Killers and Paymasters Revealed, and Poker: How To Play, How To Win.

Honourable mentions for catching my attention briefly were: Firsts, Lasts & Onlys: Military; Poolside (a waterproof book!); The Naughty Girl's Guide to Life (funny); and Do Ants Have Arseholes?: And 101 Other Bloody Ridiculous Questions (I suppose they do), all on a two-for-three pounds-or-two-pounds-each offer. Stopped by a pound shop where I got a pack of five disposable safety razors for 50 pence (and promptly nicked myself with one back at the hostel).

Freed from the agony of wondering whether my baggage can be carried on, as it surely can't now, we went for the so-called New Walk down River Ouse, south of Skeldergate Bridge. We passed plenty of joggers, cyclists and dog walkers, kids climbing trees, and more bleeping swans sitting down at the riverside. Let's see them get relaxed next to a restaurant, huh?

Crossed the swanky new Millenium Bridge [8], and went into Rowntree Park at the end of the walk, where it appears they have every sporting facility imaginable - tennis courts, basketball courts, a football pitch, a skate park, even a table tennis table... you name it, they have it. Not only that, the park supported a colony of geese, who obligingly dotted footpaths with their not inconsiderable excrement. All was forgiven when I spotted the tiny goslings, though.


Two little goslings in a pond


Dinner at the same place as yesterday's, and this time it was fries and two pieces of chicken [9] for me. English servings are very generous.

Tip of the day: Old men appear to be the most helpful, when asking for directions - and two of them actually said 你好! Spotted: One Man Utd and one Liverpool jersey; and maybe a York City FC one, but I wouldn't know.



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Next: Pilgrims Progress


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2 comments

M:) said...
hi! time flies... looking forward everyday for new entries. how long wil u be at England? take care:P


June 9, 2009 - 21:25 SGT     
gilbert said...
about 5 more days i think


June 10, 2009 - 07:59 SGT     

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